Monday, 2 November 2015

Hal-Con Sci-Fi & Fantasy Convention 2015

Hal-Con 2015 Toku Finds

We were at the Halifax Hal-Con 2015 event over the weekend and had an amazing time!
While walking around the convention we saw 100s of amazing costumes and cosplayers. We even ran into some people in Tokusatsu cosplay, including some of our team members.

Kamen Rider W -

Hidari Shotaro 


Mighty Morphin Power Rangers - 

White Ranger & Green Ranger


Sunday, 25 October 2015

Project W001 - Shoulder Template



After extensive tutorial training and getting more materials and tools, we're now going to try using floor pad foam. 

We previously printed out and built a pepekura template for the Kamen Rider W shoulders. We used card stock paper and hot glued everything together. It was a lot of jagged edges and hard lines but it was the right scale and size. Since we don't have a better template to use, we cut the finished pepekura form in half and then split one side.  


Using this we traced it on regular paper and made some registration marks. Cut this out and then traced it on our foam. Using the registration marks we'll know where everything is supposed to line up when assembled. 

Using our knife, which we sharpen between cuts as the foam dulls the blade quickly. We cut out the shapes.

Note: the template is 1/2 of a single shoulder. To make the complete shoulder flip the template over.  





After cutting the foam, it's time to shape! Using our heat gun (a hairdryer won't get hot enough) and our foam dome we heated up the foam and held it down until it was the shape we wanted. Pin the shape down until it cools. It will spring back a little.



 Next we glued the center seam together on each piece. Making what you see here.
NOTE: these pieces are both of the same shape since we didn't flip over the template yet. They will not fit together since they are the same!

Saturday, 17 October 2015

How to Adjust Scale on a Pepakura Model

How to Adjust Scale on a Pepakura Model



Now this tutorial is going to be something a bit different than the usual. In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to properly scale a wearable pepakura model so that it will fit you perfectly!


Materials
- Pepakura Designer 3
- Pepakura model
- Full body reference picture
- Half a brain

Everything can be found online for this tutorial

Overview:
This is a very quick and easy process by which you can re-size pepakura models to fit your body. It can be done with most models.

WARNINGS:
There is nothing dangerous about this tutorial

Always make sure you read through the entire process before beginning to avoid mistakes and get a general idea of how the project will progress.
Now let's make get started:



Step 1: Getting a reference picture
The very first step in this tutorial is to find a full-body reference picture of the character who wears the certain piece, or anyone who you'd like the ratio to be similar to. In other words, I'm going to be doing a couple Daft Punk helmets, so my best bet would be to find a full body photo of Thomas and Guy-Manuel. However, if I couldn't find a full body photo of them, it's alright for me to use another picture of someone wearing an outfit of theirs if I like the size of the helmet. Do NOT use paintings or drawings, as good as they may be, they are probably not as accurate when it comes to anatomy (not to diss anyone's art or anything). I managed to find a nice, full body picture of both Guy-Manuel and Thomas, so I lucked out.


Step 2: Taking measurements
Now this is a very crucial step. It's not at all difficult, but it must be done as accurately as possible to get the best results in your overall ratio. Take a ruler (preferably a bendable one or a measuring tape) and measure the height of the model you've found the picture for in cm. Then, measure their headpiece, chest piece, leg piece, or whatever else you want to size (in cm as well). Once you've gotten both measurements, all that's left is to take your own height down and convert it to cm. If you don't know your own height to the inch, then you're going to need to take your measurement. For this, you're probably going to need someone to help you out and hold the tape or ruler while you stand as straight as you can. One trick I like to do when I'm alone is to stand up straight and use a pencil to make a very light mark along a door or wall and then just measure the wall up to that point. There are many ways to do it, just make sure it's accurate! Once you've gotten your measurement, you're going to need to convert it to cm. Reason being, pepakura model measurements go by mm. You can either take your measurement and do the math yourself (an inch is approximately 2.54 centimeters) or just type it into google. Once you get the cm, just move the decimal place over once to the right and you've converted it to mm.

Step 3: Doing the math

Now there's endless ways you can go about doing the calculations to get the magic number you're going to need for your model, but we're going to go into a couple simple methods I find are easy to grasp the concept of. If you can understand the meaning of the equations you're doing, then you won't even have to remember any formulas and it will just come naturally. That's right, we're going to be doing MATH. That stuff is useful? Apparently so.

Method 1
When it comes to doing the first method, everything is laid out in the actual problem, but grasping the meaning may be a bit difficult. You essentially have to think of it as finding a missing number using ratios. It's very simple and many of you have probably learned it before. Simply take your 3 known numbers and arrange them into a ratio problem (which has 2 fractions set equal to each other). Set both demoninators to the same aspect (person height) and then the numerators to the same aspect (helmet height) and then set them equal to each other. Cross-multiply the factors together and then divide to seclude the x term. In this method, your x term will be equal to the height or your helmet. I've included a picture that explains the method in more detail, along with an example.

Method 2
The second method is a bit easier to do, but it requires an extra step. Typical math, it's never just easy lol. But it really is, don't get discouraged. In the second method, we are trying to find a factor by which everything is multiplied rather than the exact measurement. In other words, your model that we measured from the picture is obviously much smaller than a real person. So when we tackle our second model, we are solving to find a number that can be multiplied to our very small helmet measurement and cause it to become a very realistic size. For example, if I'm 50 inches tall and I measure a helmet that's only 2 inches and a figure that's 5, then I can try to solve for the certain NUMBER rather than my exact measurement. So I can look at it like, how many times would I have to multiply 5 inches to make it 50 inches? well, 10 of course. So then you take the 10 and multiply it by 2 and you have your exact helmet size. I've drawn a picture and explained this method as well.


Step 4: Scaling the model
Now for the quickest step. To scale your model, all you have to do is open your pepakura designer and edit the information. Here is where things may get pricey. Yes, unfortunately you have to pay for pepakura designer, and that's the piece of software you need to re-scale models. It's around $40USD, but it's useful if you're going to be making models. It's also pretty imperative since most models are made extremely large in the event that their designers KNOW that they're going to be used to make actual props. If you're not sure if your model needs to be resized or not, check the actual file. Most of the time, the designer will have a note that says "Check scale before printing" or something along those lines. If not, simply check the scale yourself. Checking the scale can be done with the free Pepakura Designer software, but you will not be able to save any work or changes made to the model. The models I used had to be re-sized, and unfortunately, I didn't know until I was halfway done with the damn papercraft.

So anyway, let's get to actually programming it into the system. In Pepakura Designer, on the top right of the screen, open your 2D menu and scroll down to 'change scale', and then 'scale factor'. A popup will appear and it will show you the current measurements of the model. I have Pepakura Designer 3, and it shows up in mm (hence why I said it may be necessary to convert to mm earlier). Change the HEIGHT of the model to the measurement in mm you got. *Hint* it should be in the hundreds, not the tens. If it's a 2 digit number, you probably need to add another zero.


Step 5: Moving the print arrangement
Once you've rescaled your model, the printing arrangement will shrink and cause the models to be scattered across page boarders. Simply click and drag the pieces to new pages and make sure than none run off the edge of the page. Don't forget or you'll have a big ol mess once you print your scattered pieces.

And there you have it! A nicely scaled model that's bound to fit you like a glove!

Sourced - http://kantikane.blogspot.ca/2011/07/how-to-adjust-scale-on-pepakura-model.html

Thursday, 15 October 2015

Project W001 - Helmet update

After a few days with some humid air the glue from the tape being used let go and parts of the foam shifted loosing the main structure until finally it collapsed under its own weight. While an inconvenience it was a learning experience.

So now we needed to find something to leave the helmet on so it would support itself and keep its shape. We thought about using a wig head, but don't have a wig head the right size to leave the helmet on so we thought why not use a balloon? Since the shape is already figured out and after redoing the tape we got the helmet back the way we wanted it, a balloon would be a great way to hold the weight properly. Since balloons inflate to the confines of the helmet it sits very similar to how my head will when I'm wearing the final product.

Learning that the tape I was using wouldn't hold I covered the entire helmet in masking tape and over lapped the layers.

My next thought is to cover this layer in cling wrap and then paper mache over that so this can be used as a base for multiple helmets.

The eyes are still empty and we're looking at options on what to do with them.

Tuesday, 13 October 2015

Project W001 - STEP 3 - Cutting The Parts

STEP 3 - Cut ALL the things!

It should go without saying, but now you have to cut all of your pieces out. BUT WAIT!!!

We did that the first time we made parts of this project. We printed out all the parts on regular paper and cut them out then glued them together. The end result looked like these -


While still functional and highly detailed they don't have much structure and can't hold up their own weight. But they don't look bad


 Problem here was the scaling was completely wrong. This helmet was suppose to be a few CM larger than my head so I could put padding and fans in. Turns out it was a lot more than originally expected. So a lot was learned and this prototype was scraped. This version was scaled to 340MM when it should have been 310-320MM to fit properly.

So back to Pepakura Designer and try again. After some further searching online and testing other helmets in the source files we found a simpler version with the W crest as a removable unit. We printed this using the new scale of 280MM and cut it out.

Before we started cutting each part out we glued the parts to Foam Sheets.

Not ideal for this project but it's all we had available right now. We had to glue a few sheets together at the edges so we could cut out larger parts so we used hot glue for these.

After we let the glue dry, it was time to start cutting!!!

Since we were using the foam as the base instead of just paper we cut the "tabs" off the parts as we went along and used tape on the back of the parts.

HINT - parts are numbered, just match the numbers edge to edge

After a while we got these -


Much stronger and properly scaled.
Problem here, while it fits as expected it's still not very strong and ventilation IS a problem! Once the eyes go on it'll be really hard to breathe and not get over heated.

Project W001 - STEP 2 - Printing the Parts

STEP 2 - Printing The Parts

On the right side of the screen we see the pieces as they will be printed out. We need to change our paper size to match what we will be used. We used Letter paper to print out pieces.


To change your print settings - File - Print and Paper Settings

Set your configuration to match this screen. This will allow you to print all of your pieces in the right scale and be clear and easy to cut.

If your pieces shifted on the right side of the screen, simply move them so they are only on 1 piece of paper. In most cases you can have multiple pieces on the same sheet of paper to print.

HINT - To keep pieces from overlapping and causing conflicts - 2D Menu - Check Overlapping Parts should be enabled. If any parts are too close they will show in red. Click the pieces and move them until they are not red.

When ready Print!

Project W001 - Step 1 - Scaling the Pepakura Files

STEP 1 - Scaling the Pepakura Files

Download and install Pepakura Designer - Sourced HERE

It'll cost about $38USD plus exchange and it's worth the investment.

The viewer works fine but if you need to change the scale of your product to fit you, buy the Designer.

Download and extract your Pepakura files somewhere on your PC.

Open Pepakura Designer - Open your files
You'll something similar to this window.


Next take the tape measure and place it on your head. You'll be measuring chin to the top of your head. Measure in centimeters (CM) or millimeters (MM) not inches. Pepakura Designer uses MM, so if you measured your head to be 28CM convert to MM using this formula - #CM X 10 = #MM

28CM X 10 = 280MM

Now that we have the height of your head we can input this into Pepakura Designer.

Click on 2D Menu - Change Scale - Set Scale...

In Height we type in 280 and leave the rest as defaults. Leave Change Font Size of Text as checked, hit OK

The pieces have changed size to accommodate the new scale.